Trouble in Paradise 11/23/2009

Mason received word of trouble up north late last night and left the island on the first flight out to get home. As of today (Thursday) abandonment of the voyage is in the works. Claire and I will wait for favorable weather here in Nassau and then take the boat back to Florida to be put on the hard.

Nassau, New Providence 11/22/2009

Hoisted anchor in Great Stirrup Cay at 6:40am and made revolutions for Nassau 52 miles southeast. The sea was more typical today with 15 - 20 knot winds and 1 - 3' waves atop 4 - 6' long period swell. We thought we would try our fishing again today and set the pole right away. FISH ON at 7:15!

I landed this Jack after a few minutes of winching. Amazing the fight they have.

I was well beyond my expertise filleting the jack we kept.

Three more fish were caught and released regularly on the hour. When we left the shallows of the island bank to deep water the action stopped. Knot-A-Lot cosyed up to the dock in Nassau at 4:00pm.

Great Stirrup Cay, Berry Islands 11/21/2009

We cast of our lines at 6:45 am and set course for Great Stirrup Cay in the Berry Islands, 62 nautical miles. As one can see the seas were uncommonly calm under sunny skies. We did have a light breeze and motored under our mainsail sheeted close to center.

Claire had a pole with lead core line, a thirty pound monofiliment leader with a silver spoon and a BIG hook. I did not believe we would catch anything motoring at 6 knots and if we did what we would do with it without a net or gaff. I was mistaken because at one point I noticed we had some interest in the lure and I believe we did have a strike. The fish was only on the line for about 3 or 4 minutes and I did not get a chance to winch any line back in. We should have slowed our speed but as we did not I think I pulled his teeth out.

The largest waves today were made by our boat.

So calm you can see the reflection of our pulpit in the water before us.

Some cruise ships make this a regular stop on the north side of this northern most island in the Berrys

The same island from our anchorage looking north. Our first attempt to anchor was unsuccessful with difficult holding on hard stoney bottom. The second attempt found good hold and we weathervained off 75' of scope in 15' of water. In the photo you can see one of four permanent moorings in a square pattern that were used by ferries that sevice the cruise ships visiting the other side of the island. One was occupied when we arrived the other three vacant with boats in service at the time. One by one the remaining three came in after dark. We were relatively close to one of the moorings and when the last boat maneuvered into the field they rafted to another ferry instead of claiming their mooring near us. I can only assume they extended us the courtesy of bouy room, very polite.

We settled in for cocktails dinner and a movie on the computer after dark. I leave you with the sunset from Great Stirrup Cay.

Port Lucaya, Ocean Reef YC 11/20/2009

We cast off our lines at Old Bahama Marina leaving Dan Pearce on the dock snapping photos and waving goodby. Dan was to take a resort bicycle to to the bus stop a few miles down the road for a 30 min ride to Freeport where he intended to wander the streets and later catch a plane at 3:00pm to Ft. Lauderdale. He had the shower room keys we left Riviera Beach with. In Ft. Lauderdale he was to taxy to the train to West Palm, take another taxy to Riviera Beach to return the keys and fetch his car for the drive to the Orlando area.

We on the other hand set out to make Port Lucaya 29 miles easterly down the coast of Grand Bahama. Mostly motored in light air close to the nose. Bypassed Freeport taking the photos of the traffic as we passed.

These guys are pretty impressive.

Channel entrance to the Ocean Reef Yacht Club. The club is a timeshare type resort with all the typical ammenities. Spent the afternoon in the pool and visiting with people. There is a pattern developing with some. The guy stopped here because he had an engine that needed a head gasket, this was four years ago. There are a number of Canadian boats that winter here. The Ocean Reef offers reasonable rates to boaters to encourage them to stay and lend ambiance to the resort.

Claire went to an event in town with friends we met from Alaska. Mason and I retired to the bar for a couple of nightcaps. We discussed the economics of beer that now costs $37 -  $42.00 in the islands and rum. The verdict is rum will be far more space efficient and cost effective.

Crossing the "River" 11/18/2009

We left Riviera Beach Marina and West Palm Beach in our wake at 8:00pm today. The storms north of us that we experienced last week as strong northeasterlies have given way to fair weather. The strong winds slowed the gulf stream surface current to under 2 knots though stacking heavy seas as well. A stalled high pressure front in north Florida has yeilded lighter winds under 15 knots, though still from the north by northeast they are waining in the evening. This pattern has allowed the gulf to lay down.

Our decision to leave flies in the face of conventional wisdom that you never cross the gulf stream with northerly winds. The observed and predicted weather combined with some first hand conversation with a boat that had crossed the night before and our increasing impatience dictated the decision.

Mason's cousin Dan Pearce drove over to make the crossing with us. Once out in the ocean heading east our seas were on the beam with winds of 10 - 15- knots north by northeast. We intended to motorsail the 59 miles and unfurled the jib making just under 7 knots. The wind shifted to the nose, we lost our wind angle and reverted to motoring. Without the headsail we were no longer able to minimize the boat's roll in the 3 -4' seas. My watch was scheduled for 3:00am and I went below to get some rest. My efforts to sleep across the gulf stream did not materialize with the boat attitude. I was told the seas did increase to 4 -6' but as crossings go not bad. I was abruptly awakened upon two occasions when noticably larger waves transferred my horizontal frame to the opposite side of the cabin. My watch greeted me with calm seas the result of the anticipated night lee beyond the east edge of the "river". The skies were clear and the seas flat enough to see tracks of light across the ocean stemming from stars near the horizon. A few shooting stars, a couple of passing boats in the night, a beer or two and we arrived at West End about 6:15am the 19th.

Old Bahama Marina, West End, Grand Bahama at daybreak.

Missed the welcome sign.

The day was spent resting from the crossing bay the pool at Old Bahama. Claire and I decided to explore the community beyond on a couple of bikes. The road beyond the marina ran along the sea and the shoreline was paved with conch shells discarded by the local fisherman that had little stands along the road about every 100yds. The opposite side of the road gave way to alternating residences, government sevices and informal local bars, some more questionable than others. Claire suggested we stop for a beer. We compared notes and determined that I was carrying 5 bucks and Claire had 4 thus dictating a need for a good deal somewhere. I suggested we continue down the road a bit further and I discovered our deal, 3 beers for 6 bucks, the sign read. Claire was ahead and I yelled to have her turn back and I did a "U" turn and these guys were right there.

    

As I was to wait for Claire I pulled over to check out what these guys caught across the road from "3 beers for 6 bucks". The guy on the right is named "Lawrence" (I forgot his nickname), the guy on the left was called "L A Law" (I forgot his real name). L A Law was cleaning Red Snapper at the time but had already cut a bowl full of steaks from a baracuda and fillets from the grouper in the photo. We crossed the road with Lawrence and bought 3 beers for 6 bucks and 2 shots of Tequilla for Lawrence and L A Law. We met some other charactors from Nassau and shared some fresh aloe in our drinks. L A Law wanted Claire to have a Conch shell and brought 2 over to the bar. Claire surmised he wanted to be compensated but knowing we had exhausted our financial resources she effected a trade consisting of a zip lock bag, a Bic pen, dental floss, a 1/2 eaten bag of sun flower seeds and a small opal stone from Tuscon. The deal was consummated, we finished our drinks and decided to head back before dark.

Birds dining on the discard.

The setting sun at West End at the terminus of our bike ride.

We had planned to make seafood jambalaya for dinner and this guy showed up with rock lobster he had caught today for 5 bucks apiece. The jury was out for but a few minutes and we purchased 4 to add to the fare. The addition to the planned menu was excellent. Not to bad for the cheap seats in the yatching world.

Leaving Florida in our wake 11/18/2009

Wind and sea are in a favorable pattern for a scheduled departure to the Bahamas tonite at 8:00pm. We begin our "Thorny" voyage first east then south through the islands.Thorny because our route opposes the prevailing trade winds, current and seas. Traveling at night affords the best condition to maximize our comfort along the way and the best visibility to navigate the reefs upon arrival the following morning. Space aboard a blue water sailboat is at a premium and the availability of fundamental supplies questionable in the islands dictating scrutiny and prudent provisioning for the voyage.

Fish in the harbor by the thousands.

S/Y Athena West Palm 11/16/2009

Sat around today and did some chores on the boat. Later in the afternoon we were having a beer and I saw masts over Peanut Island coming from the sea. I snapped this snot as the yacht backed into a slip by the Port Authority.

We were low on beer and with the awareness of the fact that two blocks away there are guns in the street I took the bike to the convienience store one block away before it got to late. Having had a couple of beers already, upon concluding my business I opened a "roady" and started back. I decided to detour into the Port Authority to see if I could get a closer inspection of this yacht. I rode in like I owned the place beer in hand. The British flagged yacht lie in a fenced and gated berth. I was able to snap the shots below through the fence and only wish I knew how to work my camera better. At one point A smartly dressed man accompanied by armed Port Authority officers walked up behind me and asked me not to take pictures of his boat. He didn't appear to be to be to offended so I shook his hand and lifted the back of his sport jacket and commented "you must have left your wallet on the boat". He said he did, smiled and walked off. I snapped a few more shots jumped on our rusty bike with beer in the egg crate strapped to the handle bars and concluded my errand.

The lights on the masts are red clearence lights for aircraft, not anchor lights in this situation. Some research on the net determined this yacht to be the S/V Athena, constructed in 2004 she is the largest privately owned sailing yacht with an LOA of 90 meters (295' 3") displacing a staggering 1,177 tons. Constructed of high tensile Alustar she is the largest all aluminum yacht to date. Her masts reach 197' from the decks which I surmise to be another 25 - 30' off the water and carry 28,632sf of sail. The boat entertains ten guests in five staterooms with a crew of eighteen.

ATHENA’s interior design is by Rebecca Bradley, her bridge Deck featuring open air lounge, media lounge, lobby and powder room. Her main deck with formal dining salon, library, main salon with wet bar and an alfresco dining area. She also features roomy foyers, hallways and satellite seating areas.

West Palm Sun/Mon 11/15,16/2009

Patiently waiting for favorable weather on the beach at Peanut Island across the intracoastal from our parking spot.

Knot-A-Lot at the dock.

"Vela Velace" arrived at 7:00 am this Monday down from St. Johns, Newfoundland. She is an IOR 52 similar to one of the other boats on the hard already. I went and had a chat particularly to query about the sea state. Real nice people. I had to cut the conversation short or I would have ended up drinking beer with them. A tad early for me.

The crew and yard had the boat out, taken apart and cradled by noon.

Amazing how comfortable this guy was just feet from me. All for now.
Sunday morning Bloody Mary ritual.

Race cars in West Palm

When we ventured up to the harbormaster's office to check in a boat caught my attention over the fence in the marina next door. After concluding our business I walked around to investigate. Come to find out because this location has deep water access to the ocean and accepts ocean freight it is a preferred location for sailboats staging for the Southern Ocean Racing Conference. Several have arrived on their own bottoms as will others but a number will be shipped into this marina.

Rambler paces out at 60' something.

This blue boat (below) and the slightly smaller red boat "Titan" above sailed down from Rhode Island arriving a couple of days ago. Their draft and mast height forbids transitting the intracoastal and as a result they endured the weather we opted to avoid with respect to heavy air and also had to cope with the associated seas. The blue boat, as the story goes, was logging 22 knots in 30' seas under headsail alone just north of this area during the nastiest blows of this week.

But this is what caught my eye over the fence earlier. At first it appeared to be a Whitbred 60 but discovery proved otherwise. What is 99' in length less the bow sprint, requires 18' of water to float, races with a crew of 24 with no standing headroom below deck and can reach speeds of 35 knots in 20 knots of breeze (faster when the wind freshens). If you guessed "Speedboat" you are correct. The canting bulb keel is shown below complimenting twin daggerboards similar to a scow as well as twin rudders.

Claire stands a little over 5'.

Billionare Richard Branson either owns or leased the boat from the undisclosed owner (conflicting information) to attempt a speed record ocean crossing of the Atlantic from New York to England. Vinyl graghics in red were applied to the hull that have been stipped here at the yard. The campaign was dubbed Virgin Money and had an initial budget of 15 million that ballooned to 40 by the terminus of the second failed attempt. On the second attempt, the boat sailed into a 40' wave at speed that damaged the sails beyond repair 600 miles out.

If you pull up YouTube and search "Virgin Speedboat" there are a number of clips of this amazing race car.