We left Riviera Beach Marina and West Palm Beach in our wake at 8:00pm today. The storms north of us that we experienced last week as strong northeasterlies have given way to fair weather. The strong winds slowed the gulf stream surface current to under 2 knots though stacking heavy seas as well. A stalled high pressure front in north Florida has yeilded lighter winds under 15 knots, though still from the north by northeast they are waining in the evening. This pattern has allowed the gulf to lay down.
Our decision to leave flies in the face of conventional wisdom that you never cross the gulf stream with northerly winds. The observed and predicted weather combined with some first hand conversation with a boat that had crossed the night before and our increasing impatience dictated the decision.
Mason's cousin Dan Pearce drove over to make the crossing with us. Once out in the ocean heading east our seas were on the beam with winds of 10 - 15- knots north by northeast. We intended to motorsail the 59 miles and unfurled the jib making just under 7 knots. The wind shifted to the nose, we lost our wind angle and reverted to motoring. Without the headsail we were no longer able to minimize the boat's roll in the 3 -4' seas. My watch was scheduled for 3:00am and I went below to get some rest. My efforts to sleep across the gulf stream did not materialize with the boat attitude. I was told the seas did increase to 4 -6' but as crossings go not bad. I was abruptly awakened upon two occasions when noticably larger waves transferred my horizontal frame to the opposite side of the cabin. My watch greeted me with calm seas the result of the anticipated night lee beyond the east edge of the "river". The skies were clear and the seas flat enough to see tracks of light across the ocean stemming from stars near the horizon. A few shooting stars, a couple of passing boats in the night, a beer or two and we arrived at West End about 6:15am the 19th.
Old Bahama Marina, West End, Grand Bahama at daybreak.
Missed the welcome sign.
The day was spent resting from the crossing bay the pool at Old Bahama. Claire and I decided to explore the community beyond on a couple of bikes. The road beyond the marina ran along the sea and the shoreline was paved with conch shells discarded by the local fisherman that had little stands along the road about every 100yds. The opposite side of the road gave way to alternating residences, government sevices and informal local bars, some more questionable than others. Claire suggested we stop for a beer. We compared notes and determined that I was carrying 5 bucks and Claire had 4 thus dictating a need for a good deal somewhere. I suggested we continue down the road a bit further and I discovered our deal, 3 beers for 6 bucks, the sign read. Claire was ahead and I yelled to have her turn back and I did a "U" turn and these guys were right there.
As I was to wait for Claire I pulled over to check out what these guys caught across the road from "3 beers for 6 bucks". The guy on the right is named "Lawrence" (I forgot his nickname), the guy on the left was called "L A Law" (I forgot his real name). L A Law was cleaning Red Snapper at the time but had already cut a bowl full of steaks from a baracuda and fillets from the grouper in the photo. We crossed the road with Lawrence and bought 3 beers for 6 bucks and 2 shots of Tequilla for Lawrence and L A Law. We met some other charactors from Nassau and shared some fresh aloe in our drinks. L A Law wanted Claire to have a Conch shell and brought 2 over to the bar. Claire surmised he wanted to be compensated but knowing we had exhausted our financial resources she effected a trade consisting of a zip lock bag, a Bic pen, dental floss, a 1/2 eaten bag of sun flower seeds and a small opal stone from Tuscon. The deal was consummated, we finished our drinks and decided to head back before dark.
Birds dining on the discard.
The setting sun at West End at the terminus of our bike ride.
We had planned to make seafood jambalaya for dinner and this guy showed up with rock lobster he had caught today for 5 bucks apiece. The jury was out for but a few minutes and we purchased 4 to add to the fare. The addition to the planned menu was excellent. Not to bad for the cheap seats in the yatching world.
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